A number of foreign cosmetic brands have become victims of counterfeits as local authorities face many obstacles in exerting some oversight.
Ms. Nguyen Thi Mai, a 30 year old receptionist at a restaurant in Hanoi’s Nam Tu Liem district, was hospitalized recently when her face became swollen after using blemish remover. The White Doctors Melasma Pro, priced at VND780,000 ($36), was advertised as a perfect blemish removal cream, but a week after buying it online it had done quite a bit of damage to her face. “I had less spots after using the cream for a few days,” she explained. “But then I started to itch terribly.” The White Doctors Melasma Pro is, in fact, among 17 cosmetic products recalled by the Drug Administration of Vietnam under the Ministry of Health in October last year. Ms. Mai’s experience is among numerous cases reported around the country, ringing alarm bells about the amount of dangerous cosmetics in the market.
Cosmetics lead the list of the 31 most-counterfeited items in Vietnam, according to figures from the Vietnam Association for Anti-Counterfeiting and Trademark Protection (VATAP) released at a conference on the prevention of fake and counterfeit goods sold in the lead up to the lunar new year, held in December in Ho Chi Minh City. “Counterfeit or fake cosmetics are made so quickly that they appear in the market immediately after our products have been launched and established a reputation among customers,” Ms. Pham Huong, Coach Manager of LG VINA Cosmetics, the exclusive importer and distributor of two high-end cosmetic brands - Ohui and The History of Whoo - told VET.
Easy to find
Despite their poor quality, fake cosmetic products still sell like hot cakes because of their cheap price and attractive packaging. Fakes labeled as Chanel, Maybelline and Lancome are available widely in night markets, stores and online shops. According to Ms. Vu Doan Thuy, National Sales Manager at The Faceshop Vietnam, the price of fake and counterfeit products can be 40-50 per cent lower than their authentic counterparts. The Faceshop have been in Vietnam for ten years and become among the most-favored in large cities, which results in fakes flooding into the market. “While the cosmetics industry is growing, authentic The Faceshop cosmetics’ sales in Vietnam fell in 2014,” she said. “The spread of counterfeit and fake cosmetics adversely affect the reputation, brand and revenue of authentic products.”
Most fake cosmetics and their ingredients in Vietnam come from China. Smugglers need only get the fake products over the border, where they are then distributed around the country. Last October the Hanoi Police’s Department of Environmental Crime Prevention found thousands of boxes of cosmetics of unknown origin at the Bach Phuong International Trade Company. Company owner Doan Thi Dung was unable to provide police with certificates of origin for the ingredients used in her company’s cosmetics. She admitted buying the ingredients at border markets in Lang Son and Mong Cai, as well as bottles and boxes of the invented Ecolly brand, then selling them as a foreign-brand of cosmetics from France to beauty centers in Hanoi for $70 a set.
In many stores, fake cosmetics labeled as foreign brands are advertised as hand-carried imported goods or hand-carried by flight attendants from their country of origin. “Many women are desperate to have a fair complexion for as little money as possible,” Ms. Huong added. “This is one of the major reasons behind the spread of counterfeit or smuggled products in Vietnam.”
A tough battle
Fighting against counterfeit products has never been an easy task. During investigations by local authorities in recent years, many products suspected of being counterfeit had to go through costly and time-consuming testing, as to the naked eye they appear to be the real thing. Those who sell the fakes have also started using more sophisticated tricks, buying one or two batches of authentic products and using the paperwork for their counterfeits. There are also insufficient staff tasked with monitoring and managing the market. “Prevention efforts cannot have the desired effect without the active participation of businesses,” said Mr. Do Thanh Lam, Deputy Director of the Market Surveillance Agency under the Ministry of Industry and Trade.
According to Mr. Lam, many businesses have not paid adequate attention to intellectual property rights and not applied legal and technical measures to protect their brands and prevent counterfeits. In particular, some businesses have not cooperated with authorities or provided product information. “Businesses have not understood the importance of protecting their brand, which has created major difficulties in preventing counterfeit goods,” he said. Businesses need to have a specialized division for protecting their intellectual property rights and cooperating with and supporting agencies. “The Market Surveillance Agency will create the conditions for businesses to participate in the investigation process,” he said.
However, a few enterprises have their ow